Tag Archives: california

A little interlude with a bear

‘I’m going out there. I have to move that potato.’

‘Ok,’ I whisper, thinking you are on your own buddy.

John disappears through the canvas flap.

He is gone a long time. I hear rustling. Then I hear gallumping, paw-pounding sounds. Right near my head.

Then I hear John breathlessly re-entering the tent.

‘Did you get the potato?’ I say.

‘There’s a great big fucking bear outside,’ he replies. ‘I need you to come outside with me.’

I sit up in bed. ‘Are you fucking kidding me?’ I hiss, ‘You just said there’s a great big fucking bear outside.’

Not even the fear of a $5000 fine can persuade me outta that bed and through those canvas flaps.

‘But it’s our fault,’ John says, ‘The bear is going to keep coming back until it gets the potato.’

I open and shut my mouth.

‘Fuck Fuck Fuck,’ John repeats like a prayer.

‘What? What is it?’ a frightened little voice pipes up from the darkness on the other side of the tent.

‘Nothing darling, go back to sleep,’ we whisper.

‘But what is it?’ Lula asks shrilly, ‘is it a bear?’

‘No, No, it’s just daddy, he needs a wee. Go back to sleep.’

She flops down on the bed and consents.

‘Look, come with me,’ John says again.

I have to go. I cannot stay in the tent clutching my knees, my ears pricked for the sounds of growls and shrieks and leg bones snapping like twigs. It’s like the Blair Witch is outside and John wants me to leave the tent with him. I am caught between a rock and a bear.

I am not dressed for facing down bears. I’m in t-shirt, knickers and flip flops. When am I ever dressed right for the occasion? I think in some recess of my mind which isn’t processing BEAR.

‘Turn on the outside light,’ I tell John.

We tiptoe outside the tent. I stand guard, my eyes telling me that every boulder is a bear. John rescues the glowing potatoes from the embers of the fire. Well one. The other three have mysteriously vanished.

John puts the potato into the metal container. The one that says on it in big, bold letters: ‘PLEASE PUT ALL YOUR FOOD INSIDE. FAILURE TO COMPLY WILL RESULT IN A $5000 FINE. DON’T BE  RESPONSIBLE FOR KILLING A BEAR.’

We skitter back inside the tent and grip each other under the sheets.

‘Well you’re not getting your Junior Ranger Badge,’ I tell John. ‘You’re supposed to yell ‘NO BEAR GO BEAR,’ not run away from it.’

John is proud of his cowering technique however.

‘Anyway,’ he says, ‘whose bright idea was it to leave the potatoes in the fire to cook overnight?’

Top 10 things to do on a round the world trip: Part 2

5. Cycling.

John says cycling up the volcano in Bali. If you recall I cycled DOWN. Except it wasn’t down. So that doesn’t feature on my highlight list. But cycling around the riverfront in Perth does. Because it was flat.

6. Swimming to Palolem

Purely because I made it.

7. 12 hour train ride to Goa

Epic. A trip to India is not complete without spending 12 hours in a non a/c 2nd class carriage. Seriously it was one of the best days of the trip. Not that I’m keen to repeat it.

look I had short hair when I started...not the train journey, the trip. Now it is long. Shall I cut it off again?

8. Mosaic restaurant in Bali

in case you forgot this is how happy the food made me.

It will bankrupt you but it will be worth it.

9. Pillow talking with God

Ecstatic dancing was probably the funniest thing I’ve ever done. My whole life. I got a chance to pillow talk with God and see things that normally you only see in the outtakes from X factor happening right there in front of me. Serious fontrum.

I want to go back but am too scared after my post on it got posted onto the facebook page and half of Bali read it. Bad Sarah.

Ahh well read and imagine.

10. Friends

The best thing – the absolutely best thing (ok maybe not as good as the Hot Springs but close) – has been the friends we’ve made along the way – Pooja, Tara, Aaron, Jay, Natasha, Megan, Becki, Matt, Ben, Michael, Kerri, Jamieson, Tara, Kent to name but a few…

Compiled by

Sarah & John

oh and the masks were fun too.



Top 10 things to do on a round the world trip: part 1

We have seven days before we head back to London. I can’t believe we’ve been away 7 months. It’s been easily the best 7 months of my life so I’m kind of reeling with premature holiday blues whilst also enjoying the best time of the trip so far. Not that it’s over. On the one hand it feels like London will be a brief hiatus before our return to Bali in October when the next chapter of the adventure begins. As in ‘no, really, can we actually live here? (aren’t we broke?)’

Anyway, on one of our endless and endlessly beautiful car journeys through California, John and I debated the highlights of the trip. So herewith a list, for any of you out there following in our footsteps, of things not be missed on a round the world journey.

1. Californian Hot Springs

Only I’m not telling you where these are because they are too, too special. The most exquisite shrangri-la on the West Coast of America. Buried in a delve of a river canyon, bubbling from beneath the earth, slanting sunshine, cool river flowing by. Utter heaven. Maybe if you email me and ask – nay beg –nicely I’ll let you in on the secret.

I like this picture, because it looks like I have abs.

2. Thrifting

Starting Lula early. The girl has an eye for a bargain.

The unsung joy of our American trip has been the thrifting. Like shopping at Ikea it allows you to think you’re not spending anything and then your card gets declined. At a Thrift store. That’s embarrassing. Best thrifting – Mission Beach San Diego, Monterey & Santa Barbara (rich pickings).

3. Sideways wine country.



take a picnic. Don’t take a child.

4. Chai & Samosas in Patnem Beach, Goa.

Life was perfect in India. My day consisted of tripping out of our pink house, taking Alula to school via the cows munching up the rubbish dump, stopping by for 4p samosas and then heading to the beach to sip chai as the sun warmed my face. Then some writing, some swimming, some eating. BLISS.

Photos

LA

swimming in the river

Santa Barbara beach front

I'm having to do my own laundry again. IT SUCKS

She will not walk

The scales are slowly tipping

I’m not sure if you’ve seen Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs (possibly the best children’s film to be made in decades) but there’s a great scene in it when this fat bloke takes on some man-size roasted chickens and he ends up looking like this…

Well that’s what I wanted to do with my roasted chicken to the check out woman at Vons, Montecito.

Do I have ID?

I’m ambivalent to this question. Half of me is flattered that someone out there still  thinks I look younger than 21. Half of me is just plain angry that someone is making me root through my bag for my drivers’ license which I’ve gotten used to carrying everywhere because at some point the highway patrol is so going to nab my arse but which is always hidden, crumpled at the bottom of my bag. Anyway I show the Vons lady my UK drivers’ license and she looks at it. Then says, ‘No, sorry. It has to  be a US one.’

I stare at her and that’s when I imagine the chicken scene. I eye the chicken in my trolley and sigh and say to her, ‘And even though it says I’m 32 right there, next to the picture of me. And my four year old daughter is in front of you and I’m shopping in Montecito buying a weeks’ worth of groceries and I’m wondering how many 20 year olds you get in here doing that, and I bought a bottle just yesterday and your manager served me no questions, you’re still not going to let me buy this wine?’

‘No.’

Chicken image again. I got in the car with my alcohol free shopping and realized that whilst I love California – namely the sunshine, the beaches, the light, the wine (when I can get it), the smiles (except at Disneyland), the shopping, yogurtland, thriftstores, the fact that I’m currently living in the same state as Alex Skarsgard…there’s a few things stacking up on my not so fond of list.

  1. Needing my passport not just to clear immigration but also to buy wine even though I am 10 years over the limit and clearly look like I could use it.
  2. Having to stop at stop signs.
  3. Having to give right of way to pedestrians.
  4. Having to pump my own gas. Admittedly this is the case in most of the rest of the world. But not in Bali – land of the perpetually lazy ex-pat.

A strategy for life: vagabonding

We did a 5 day roadtrip. We drove 1500 miles. Half of which were unnecessary and ending in three point turns. Having said that we saw most of southern California. We headed East first to Big Bear Lake through the Mojave. We kept Lula from going car crazy by telling her to look for Bears. She spent an hour with her face pressed to the glass in the growing dusk asking ever more desparately ‘where are the bears? I don’t see the bears.’

Cabins for less - a discount for the bedbugs. And having to make your own bed.

We stayed in a place called Cabins for Less and ate at a place called the Teddy Bear. I was so ready to leave. After that we did Palm Springs, Joshua Tree, San Diego, Oceanside (location for my book) and Disneyland before heading back to Montecito where we’ve been hanging out ever since doing precisely nothing but drinking Californian wine and eating. (Oh, and I started my third book which is why I’ve been quieter than normal. sorry) Oprah is our neighbour. And Michael Jackson. Or his ghost anyway, hanging out at his Neverland ranch up the road.

I spent about 1000 of the roadtrip miles contemplating whether we could live here in California. Most of the other towns we passed through, I would gape at and turn to John saying ‘Crap, who the hell lives here? I mean, what do they do? It’s the middle of the desert.’

But then you get to San Diego and the coast and suddenly it all makes sense.  Plus they have Yogurtland here. Why have we not thought of that in Europe? It’s the future. And it’s year round 72 degrees with a lovely sea breeze.

San Diego...

Do you want to live here instead? John asks looking at me with his eyebrows raised.

I grimace and squirm. I know, I know we’ve just laid down a stonking amount of money for a house in Bali. But they have wine here, and cool breezes, and Yogurtland. And fashion.

Yes, yes of course I want to live here, I say. But we can’t afford it. And we’re moving to Bali anyway. And in Bali we get a full time nanny. And I don’t have to do my own laundry.

And then Johnny Depp comes to me. Unfortunately not literally. I remember reading an article in an in-flight magazine where he raved about his vagabond lifestyle and how wonderful it is for him and his family. And I realised that whilst I don’t own a Caribbean island nor a chateau in the south of France, that was always the life I was after. Ideally shoving Vanessa out the way and marrying Johnny to get there. But when life doesn’t take you down that path then you gotta create your own.

So here I am doing that.  I’m going to vagabond for the rest of my life as Johnny advocates. Five years in Bali. Then five years somewhere else – maybe California. Then five years maybe somewhere else. Ad infinitum until I drive that RV off a cliff when I’m 62 (it’s been prophesied).  It was an amazing realisation (the vagabonding one – not the dying one) because this whole time I was looking for somewhere we could stay forever and it was giving me silent panic attacks. But what about saying that’s not how I want to live my life? What if I want to live in many places and spend my life being a vagabond? What if home doesn’t have to be one place forever but wherever John and Lula are (and newsflash they’re coming with me).

Vagabonding: It’s the future. That and Yogurtland.

Disneyland: The fattest place on earth

Disneyland – the happiest place on earth. Also the fattest.

I didn’t know fat like this existed. It’s not like the fat you sometimes see in the UK. It’s astonishing fat. It’s six belly folds fat. It’s humungous fat and it’s queuing in front of you at the ice cream place ordering a triple chocolate sundae.

The queues in Disneyland are so long because lots of the rides were designed in the 80s when America was thinner – now they can only squeeze one person in per row, when before three people could fit. Hence queues three times as long. I can say this with something like authority because I just googled it and 34% of Americans are officially obese. (compared to the UK where it’s about 17%).

Walking down Main St, trying to avoid being squashed,  John looks at me, ‘This is your idea of hell isn’t it?’ he asks. He is smirking. He and Alula are both dancing down main street like they’re auditioning for Fame whilst I am covering my eyes and wishing there was a dark room nearby that I could lie in. Or a Margarita bar empty of all other people that I could lie in.

I am too busy scowling to answer John, but he is right. I hate crowds, I hate noise and most of all I hate smiley people (not fat people. I don’t hate fat people. I’m just astonished and intrigued by them and I actually like being amongst them because it makes me feel ok about ordering a sundae too).

I do kind of hate smiley people though. I think that’s quite British of me. There are many smiley people in Disneyland – the staff/ visitor ratio is about 1:1 and all the staff manically grin. That’s all they do. They just grin. It’s like they know Disneyland Big Brother is watching them and if they stop grinning they’ll get shot. Right there on Main street. I wonder whether when they wake up in the morning they have to swallow a bucket of prozac just to get up. Every night I imagine them going home and injecting muscle relaxant into their cheeks. It makes me depressed. It makes me want to cry.

Lula is in heaven though and this is the point John reminds me. Alula is silently worshipfully in awe of the Princesses. I try to look at Disneyland through her eyes. Instead I’m thinking things like, ‘Oh you poor dear, you probably graduated from Lamda and they have you dressed in that absurd Princess Jasmine get up’ and ‘ugh, sleeping beauty? Think not’ and ‘Tinkerbell looks like Kelly Osbourne’ and ‘Peter Pan bad hair’ and ‘if that animatronic of Johnny Depp is lifesize he’s really, really small. Like an elf’.

Disneyland should have made me nicer. It should have filled me with the spirit of celebration – it should have made me want to unite with all humankind  – It’s a small world still rings in my head like a  Guantanamo torture tune. But instead it just made me misanthropic and evil.  And now I think about it, the only bit I liked and that made me smile was the evil Queen Malificent strutting her way through the crowds scaring the children.

John didn't think the Princess Jasmine get up was so bad.

see - Peter Pan bad hair no? And Kelly Obsourne right? Am I right?

Our 3rd wedding anniversary goes well

‘It is not my fault. It is the map’s fault.’

‘A-ha,’ John murmurs from the driver’s seat.

‘No. Seriously. This map is totally fecking shite. Joshua Tree could be 5 metres away, it could be 5 miles or it could be 500 light years away. Want to know why it could be any of those? Because this map that you bought from Target is so shit.’

‘Right, so it’s my fault that you can’t read the map?’

‘I can read the map. I can read a map better than you can Mr. turn it upside down to check whether to go left or right.’

‘You get us lost more than I do.’

‘I’m sorry? Did you or did you not take us on a 150 mile detour yesterday through the Mojave desert?’

‘That’s because the scale was off in the Lonely Planet. Anyway, it was fun. We got to see the desert.’

‘It was fun for you because you got to work on your computer. I was the one driving through the desert. Look. This map is shit. I am buying a new one.’

‘It’s a waste of money. We already have a map.’

‘We have a shit map. That is getting us lost a lot. If we spent $20 on a new map we would save that in petrol money for all the detours.’

‘Well you didn’t even buy a map. You couldn’t even find the maps in the store.’

‘Yeah well actually it wasn’t that I couldn’t find them. I forgot to look.’

[Silence]

[For 50 more lost miles]

A freeze frame moment on life

I’m not sure how exactly we ended up here. It involves marriage.  And step uncles and fathers and weird shit I’d rather not delve into.  And less genetically it also involved John spending as long at the Alamo car hire place choosing a Ford Focus as it did to cross the pacific and that was something like 24 hour hours (I forget how many hours exactly because I was watching a lot of movies and we crossed the international dateline at  the point I took several hundred painkillers and passed out watching Clash of the Titans possibly the worst film ever made despite Sam W wearing nothing but a dress in it). But here we are and I’m wearing a mask that I’ve decorated in feathers and glitter and I’m barefoot and the light is glinting through the trees in such a way that it makes you feel like you’re standing at the bottom of a wine glass filled with cabernet sauvignon on a late summer’s evening. And I exhale and want to freeze frame this moment on life. I’m standing in the wild flower garden of Frank Lloyd Wright’s first house in California and I’m watching girls dressed as butterflies lying in the drive dancing with their shadows and having to explain to Lula why she can’t join the party and I’m thinking yes, I’m thinking this is it. This is the most perfect vision of life ever given to me.

Except there’s no babysitter.