Tag Archives: children

Beachwalk Kuta: Hell discovered on earth!

“I am never, as long as I live, stepping foot in Kuta ever again. EVER!’ I tell John after a day at Kuta’s new and glitziest mall ‘Beachwalk’ which should come with a sign saying: ‘check your soul at the door.’

I should have known to be suspicious when I took Alula to the loos – brand spanking new and already the locks were falling off, the floor was some weird fake brick linoleum and there were signs warning people not to squat on the toilet seats (actually Alula does need reminding because once a colonic therapist told her she should squat to poo, so she does. Everytime*). But you know what I’m saying. The place is like Hugh Heffner – from the outside it’s had a lot of work done, enough to attract the young and big breasted, looking for some glamorous times, but once you get past the dubious cosmetic work it’s gross and shoddy and corrupted on the inside.

Beachwalk was filled with crazed holiday makers. Who goes on holiday to shop in a mall that has all the same brands as you can get in your home town at more expensive prices? Who does that? Who, in fact, goes on holiday to Kuta?  WHO???? My brain demanded an answer to this seemingly unfathomable question. If you holiday in Kuta please for the love of GOD email me and tell me why.

Back to the mall. There was this tinny elevator music which pierced my brain like blunt fork tines. Repeatedly. Violently. Until I wanted to smack a real fork repeatedly into my ear drums to make it stop.

Every single shop assistant had been replaced with manic robots programmed to bounce up to you at the door, grin and then follow you, standing over your shoulder as you tried to browse. And most annoyingly, none of them had been programmed to understand that the subtle subtext of ‘I’m good thanks’ is actually ‘Fuck the fuck off.’

I was not feeling the Christmas cheer. I was feeling like I wanted to hurl myself into the three-inch deep pond and drown myself. And then the choir started up and I almost did.

Alula of course wanted to play in the hellzone. Sorry Kidzone. Where a water feature had been set up with one stinking toilet changing room beside it. John and I stood frozen in mutual horror at the chlorinated, hazlight lit area, ringed on all sides by plexiglass. The shudder rode up my spine.

‘Why is this so grim?’ I shouted to John over the screaming competing Guantanamo soundtracks of techno pop and arcade game back noise.

‘Because it smells like a UK swimming pool.’

‘Oh yeah.’

Alula was undeterred and went careering in. There weren’t even any seats for parents to watch.

So I do want I normally do in times like these – look for booze. There was none. So I do want I normally do in times like these when there’s no booze. I grabbed my Kindle and immersed myself in a book, thanking god for authors for creating worlds I can escape into (even worlds involving murder and psychotic drug-fuelled crime sprees) – worlds that are infinitely nicer than Beachwalk.

Alula then needed a wee. I hustled her into the ONLY ladies toilet for the entire ground floor food court. And guess what? There were only three cubicles. The queue was out the door.

‘This is because stupid men designed this stupid hell hole,’ I hissed to Alula while people started edging away from me in the line. ‘Only a man would think to design a mall with only three toilets for women. A stupid man or a woman-hating stupid man. Either way said stupid man should be forced to lie down while all the women in this place who need a pee squat on his head.’

I left that mall loathing in no particular order: men, Christmas, shopping, consumerism, elevator music, Topshop and the whole world.

Tis the season to be merry. Good will to all men.

Bah humbug. And screw you Beachwalk.

* I feel the need to make clear that I did not take Alula for a colonic. We had a friend who was a colonic therapist (is that the word? It sort of suggests your back bottom needs its own black leather couch and some trauma counselling). She told Alula the correct way to poo was by squatting, so now she always crouches on the toilet seat for number twos. Combine that with the fact at Green School she is used to using a compost toilet with no flush and you can picture what our toilet looks like at home after she’s done with it.**

**I’m sure she’s going to really appreciate this being in print when she’s an adult. Sorry darling.

Happy pool days

I’m going to paint you a picture. But first wait. I have to wipe the sunscreen off my computer screen.

OK…turquoise swimming pool. Check.

Freshly planted rice paddies. Check.

Green juice delivered to my sun lounger from the NEW coconut and juice warung 10 seconds from my front door. Check.

Fully charged Kindle. Check.

Music. Check.

While we were away in England our lovely landlady decided to put a swimming pool in our garden. Actually she decided this before we left but it was only finished while were away. It turns out it takes a reaaaaaalllllyyyyyyy long time to build a pool. In fact here’s a maths conundrum for you…

How long does it take twelve workmen working with just one wheelbarrow to make a swimming pool?

Three months. Yes. Three months. But partly this is I think because every time I glanced out the window they were all asleep under the bale. They managed to heft about two wheelbarrow loads of dirt a day. But I’m not complaining, because it’s not like I could dig a hole in hard ground in this weather. I’d give up after the first dull thwack of the spade against earth.

John and I didn’t really want a pool. We questioned the environmental cost and just the cost. But our landlady insisted and paid for it. So hell, now we have a pool and it’s totally transformed my life. Not that I’ve been in it yet mind. It’s far too cold for that. I have to be scorched to a crisp, dripping in sweat and gasping before I’ll get in a pool, unless it’s heated. I am a wuss when it comes to the cold. Any kind of cold. Ask anyone who knows me. In July when we went back to the UK I was wearing thermals. My body goes into shock if you put a fan in my face. On airplanes I have to ask for extra blankets and socks.

Anyway, it’s transformed my life because now I can sit outside in a patch of morning sun dipping my toes in while drinking my coffee. I can sit out here and write while my laptop slowly melts, instead of sitting at my desk inside feeling a little like I’m in prison (albeit one with room service and a hotline to all my favourite restaurants).

Alula spends every waking moment in it and has perfected her mermaid swim (‘mummy, do you know why there are waves in the sea? It’s because of the mermaids swimming.’ I don’t have the heart to tell her that it’s actually to do with the gravitational pull of the moon. There’s time for that.) I also had to teach her that it’s not OK to pee in our pool.

It’s an awesome babysitter too. Alula’s sixth birthday was a Princess Pool party. My friends pop around with their kids and we sit on the sunloungers drinking coconuts and watching them swim.

There will be no skinny-dipping though. The last time we tried to get some privacy and locked the gate, the gardener leapt over the wall.

 

Prostitution, the Human Condition & The Gorgon Stare

‘The first prostitute I ever visited was in Las Vegas. She told me that I was the youngest guy she’d ever slept with … and the best.’

I glance up from my sun-lounger where I’ve been pretending to read my kindle and stare (with my nostrils flaring) at the man speaking. He’s about sixty and up until then I’d assumed gay. I am so grossed out by the fact he is talking about Vegas prostitutes at 10am by a hotel pool that I shoot him a stare that would make a Gorgon flinch. He doesn’t seem to notice because he’s far too busy telling the 50 year-old woman next to him that he’d love to wake up next to her and that her arse is perfect.

The woman preens a little and I think to myself, lady he just told you he sleeps with prostitutes…are you fricking deaf or something? I don’t know about you ladies, but if a I guy tried to pick me up by telling me that a prostitute in Vegas told him he was great in bed, and I happened to be standing by a pool at the time, I would push him in and then I’d probably stand on him until he drowned a bit. OK, that’s probably a little harsh, but you get me? I wouldn’t preen. I wouldn’t pout. I wouldn’t giggle. I would find some way of expressing my disgust that would hopefully render him impotent for the rest of his life. I believe I have that in me.

‘I’m celibate,’ the woman answers, thrusting her cobalt-bikini clad breasts towards him like torpedos. ‘I swore off men three years ago,’ she continues. She doesn’t act like someone who has sworn off men, I think to myself, eying her over my Kindle as she flicks her hair and bats her eyelashes. I glance around wondering if I have in fact wandered onto the set of a really bad movie because these lines…these lines are beyond reality. Surely they’ve been scripted. But I see no lights, no camera. No one is yelling action.

‘I decided,’ the lady continues, ‘to go celibate after my fifth marriage ended in divorce.’

The man dives under the water at this point. Resurfacing at the far end of the pool.

I start to scribble down this epic dialogue for use at a later date in a blog post or a cheesy TV pilot or a comedy romance novel or a geriatric porn movie (you never know where my career might head, I have to keep my options open and maybe the Universe put these people here in front of me so I could record these incredible lines and then use them in the future for something truly epic…maybe I’ll win an Oscar with it or a Pulitzer…you never know…).

Just then Alula comes skipping over to me and I decide it’s too risky to stay to hear more. I don’t want my five year old asking me what a prostitute is. I grab our towels and my Kindle, ready to hustle her away from the skanky man talking about sex and the divorcee with the torpedo boobs. I head to the desk to pay for our drinks.

Suddenly from behind me I hear. ‘Wow, what amazing eyes you have.’ I wheel around and see the man speaking to Alula who thankfully has a similar approach to dodgy old men in speedos as I do. She stares at him and starts backing the hell off.

‘So beautiful,’ he continues oblivious to her death stare (she gets it from me…I’m so proud).

My warrior mama comes bursting forth at this point.  I’m about to go tearing over there like a lioness hunting down a gazelle. But John is already there. And I’m waiting for my change.

‘I draw eyes,’ I hear the man tell John. ‘I’d love to put her eyes in my painting.’

That man is not putting her eyes in his painting. I will push him in and drown him in the pool if he even thinks about putting her eyes in his painting.

‘I think the eyes tell us everything about the human condition,’ he adds, as though that might sway us into letting him paint Alula’s eyes.

Push him in the pool, I yell silently to John, that’ll teach him all he needs to know about the human condition. I curse John for not having developed his psychic mind reading abilities and myself for not having developed mind control ones. How handy that would be right now.

But John being John, (ie. being far nicer than I) and not having heard the prostitution conversation, just nods genially at the man and makes a non-committal sound followed by a polite goodbye.

Explaining the birds and the bees

‘But how are babies made?’

I admit I am not expecting this question while stuck in traffic on Raya Ubud. I’m caught, crunching through the gears, and for the first time probably ever I’m speechless. Given I’ve had 5.5 years to think on it, and given also that this is a question all parents know they’re going to face at some point, you’d think I’d have an answer prepared. Except I don’t.

‘Well, you see…’ I stammer, buying for time. I’m half-giggling and half trying to work out in my head what the correct answer is. I mean, I know the correct answer but I’m not sure how much of it to explain. What’s appropriate for a five year old to know? I don’t want to traumatize her.

Dual visions assault me. In the first, Alula runs into school and starts telling all her school-friends in graphic detail about erections and penises and I receive angry phone calls from parents outraged at their own child’s loss of innocence thanks to my daughter. In the second I see Alula running into school and telling all her school-friends that babies are grown in little pots of compost and watered regularly. I see her being socially shunned for fifteen years of her life, at seventeen still being teased on her lack of reproductive knowledge.

‘What?’ Alula interrupts my desperate imaginings.

 Daddy sticks his willy inside mummy and plants a seed doesn’t quite sound right, but it’s also the first thing that pops into my head.

I weigh up the drier; ‘Daddy’s penis inserts into mummy’s vagina.’ This only makes me giggle some more, imagining Alula’s response (it will be something like: ‘What’s a vagina?’ I’ll say, ‘Your lady bits, your front bottom, you know.’ She’ll pause, then ask, ‘But where does the willy go?’)

I suddenly recall this book I had as a child. It was all about a boy called Thomas and a girl called Sarah, who were brother and sister. I thought this book was therefore written just for me, given that my own brother was called Thomas. Imagine my wonder! Thomas and Sarah’s mum was having a baby and the book explained how babies were made and born in just the right amount of detail to satisfy my five year old self and also just enough to keep me pouring over the pages, still intrigued.

I cannot though for the life of me, sitting in the car twenty eight years on, remember the exact wording of this book. Which is a great shame.

‘But mummy how?’ Alula demands again.

I’m getting close to hysterical , wishing John was there to add his thoughts to the fray. I try the clichéd route, laughing even as I say it; ‘When a mummy and a daddy love each other very much…’

‘Yes,’ Alula interrupts impatiently, ‘But how do they make a baby?’

‘They make love,’ I say, thinking how euphemistically lovely and vague this sounds and hoping it will satisfy her fairytale-rich imagination.

‘What does that mean? Making love? What’s that?’

‘How about,’ I say, ‘we wait until we get home and then we call daddy and get him to explain?’

She sits back in her seat and after a moment agrees to my suggestion. Holy hell, I think, making a mental note NOT to prime John.

Sucker.

The one with the mermaid and the extenuating circumstances

At midnight we land. I wake Alula. She’s now so big that I can only carry her for about 0.4 seconds before I have to set her down again so there’s no way I’m carrying her off this plane. Plus I have shopping bags laden down with Percy Pigs and a My Little Pony. Bless her though, she staggers sleepily to her feet and puts on her flip flops and only starts to scream when we’re half way down the aisle.

‘I want water! I’m hungry! I’m hungry!’

I offer her a percy pig. She declines. ‘I’m hungry. I want a mermaid.’

‘You want a what?’ I ask.

‘A MERMAID!’ she screams. ‘A mer-MAID…’

‘You’re going to need to explain this one to me,’ I say, glancing anxiously at all the tourists hemming us in.

‘Remember, last time. We got a mermaid!’

I rack my brains trying to recall what Alula might be referring to. When dear God did we eat a mermaid?

‘Was it a shop? Toys R Us?’

‘NO!’

‘This was in a restaurant?’

‘They gave us food and a mermaid,’ she insists.

It twigs. She’s talking about McDonalds. She has only visited McDonalds once in five years of living. Once too many times I know. But there were extenuating circumstances that time (remember the time I got stuck with her in Singapore? McD’s was the only place at cangi airport that had free wifi. I bought her a happy meal which came with … you guessed it ….a plastic mermaid toy.) She still remembers this fact. Yet she does not remember the following: the fact I got up with her four times a night for the first eight months of her life and at least twice just last night, that she once washed elephants in a river in India, the name of her old childminder who babysat her for three years, that she took ballet classes for an entire year wearing ballet shoes that I spent several hours sewing elastic into, that I took her every week to monkey music when she was a year old, that she spent 12 months travelling around the WORLD and went to school on the beach in Goa (Goa FFS) . Doesn’t remember a single damn thing we’ve done for her…

But she remembers a happy meal eaten in a dingy airport basement a year ago.

Remind me again why we don’t give birth to our children and just place them in cardboard boxes in empty rooms for the first ten years of their life, programming robots to deliver water and meals to them regularly?

But to return to the moment. Somehow Alula knows through some weird osmosis of knowledge, that Mcdonalds happens to be the only place open at Bali airport at midnight.

We storm through immigration (she’s still screaming about mermaids). And I hurry her to McDonalds. I tell myself that it’s extenuating circumstances while wondering why after 5.5 years I still am not one of those mums who remembers to pack bottles of water and snack packs and wet wipes.

‘Do you have anything vegetarian?’ I ask the servers as I eye up the menu. It would appear from the photos that’s a no and the servers stare at me like I’ve asked them to chop off their own heads and drop them in the deep fat fryer.

‘I’ll have a cheeseburger happy meal then,’ I mumble, covering Alula’s ears.

‘A cheeseburger?!’ Alula screams, ‘Does that have meat in it?’ (remember people that Alula is now a committed vegetarian and has been for 6 months.).

I hesitate, pulling a Larry David face. Here I have a dilemma. I could say yes but I know how that will play out. She will scream very very loudly about being hungry, possibly she will lie on the floor and have a full on meltdown tantrum right here. I calculate also that: There are no food outlets anywhere that are open. I have an hour to go before we get home and the odds are she will scream the entire way. I just bought new headphones but they’re not noise cancelling.

So I do the only thing possible. I lie. If you’re a judgemental person I suggest you click away now. If you stay and then post a comment denouncing me for being an evil mother then please go take your head and boil it in a deep fat fryer right this instant – this blog is a no judgement zone and I care not a jot for your readership).

‘No darling, there’s no meat in it,’ I say. And technically, I think to myself, I’m pretty sure there isn’t any actual meat in a cheeseburger. So I’m not really lying.

I hand the burger to Alula and she tucks straight in. I do admittedly feel queasy watching her. But also a tiny bit jealous. MMMMMMMM McDonald’s burgers – I know they’re like the equivalent of eating testicles marinaded in Uranium but they taste so damn fine.

Alula stops mid-step. She puts her hand into her mouth and withdraws some burger patty – masticated and warm. She hands it to me. ‘MUMMY, taste this! I think it’s MEAT!’

‘Really?’ I say, my voice rich with bewilderment. I just want to get to the car. It’s so late.

‘Yes! This is meat!’ she cries.

‘Well, possibly,’ I say, ‘maybe it might have some meat in it.’ (again not lying exactly).

Alula blinks at me, then she does this thing where she hunches over the pavement as people push past with their suitcases and regurgitates the whole three mouthfuls like a mother bird feeding its young. A lump of burger plops onto the ground. (She does all this whilst also letting out a loud wailing siren noise.)

I’m sure if a hoover had been present she would have tried to vacuum out her mouth.

She is so hysterical that she won’t walk. Seriously, you’d think I’d just told her she had eaten an actual mermaid. Oh GOD, I think to myself. I just want to get home. So, ‘When I said it might have meat, I meant vegetable meat,’ I tell her.

Komang, our driver stares at me. Alula blinks at me but stops wailing.

‘Vegetable meat?’ she asks.

‘Yes,’ I say, taking her hand and walking, ‘Like tofu and broccoli.’

‘Oh,’ she says.

She finishes the whole thing before we make it to the car.

I still feel really bad about this.

I am such a teenager

‘You always do this’

‘Do what?’

‘Act like this’

‘Like what?’ I ask – though in my head I know full well what he is talking about. John is suggesting I’m acting like a teenager.

I shrug, huff, cross my arms over the chest. ‘I’m coming aren’t I?’ I ask slamming the car door.

I follow this with a silent yet dramatic – ‘But don’t ask me to be happy, because that was never part of the deal.’ Then I giggle to myself at the fact I’m now quoting lines from my books – Evie says this in Fated. (Ahh the fuzzy lines where fiction and real life blur…now if they could just blur a bit more and land me with the skills of my protagonists to hurl car shaped missiles at people’s heads and decapitate demons with circular saw blades).

Anyway, I digress. I’m huffing like a teenager not because I still am one but because John is dragging me up a bloody volcano at 7am. Last time I went up mount Batur was a year ago and then I swore on someone’s grave that it was the utter last time EVER as in EVVVVVEEEEEERRRRRR full stop for all eternity poke my eyes out and slap me around the face if I’m lying. Mainly I swore like this because as soon as you get out the car in the crater you’re hit by a swarm of flies so thick you finally understand what a corpse might feel like if left for a month on a body farm. But here I am having to go up the Volcano again because John has signed us up to a tree planting expedition which apparently he claims will be great fun. He mutters something else about how important it is for us to take part in things like this. I hear yada yada community yada green yada something but already I’m thinking ‘this sucks balls.’

Let’s reforest the volcano.

‘But why?’ I ask.

John stares at me sideways and shakes his head in mute disgust.

‘What?’ I ask, ‘I mean seriously, Batur is still a live volcano so isn’t it kind of pointless to plant trees which in all likelihood are going to be directly in the path of the next lava flow?’

And indeed when we get there we’re planting little saplings in lava rock. Lava rock left behind from the last time the volcano spewed out a little stream of molten fire. Just forty odd years ago.

I trudge in my flip flops over the caustic rock, having borrowed a pair of sunglasses from one nice man and got a second to carry my trees for me. ‘We don’t have a shovel,’ I say to John, ‘How are we supposed to plant these things?’

John holds up an old tree branch. ‘We’ll dig with this.’

I want to hit him over the head with it.

The other people laugh and take photos when I start scratching at the dirt to dig a hole. This is apparently as momentous an occasion as Will & Kate’s balcony kiss. John actually films me on my hands and knees. Someone cracks a joke about my nails.

I think sadly of twelve hours before where I was reclining on a day bed by a pool overlooking the beach down south drinking cocktails. I am THAT girl. I am not THIS girl. I make no pretences.

However I do plant all my trees. Then I take Alula’s hand and march back down the volcano to the car, filled with dead flies.

On the way back home John stops the car and buys a wooden table.

Just saying.

Now who’s the bad guy?

Trick or healthy treat.

It’s trick or treat time. Being British I’m faintly disturbed by this tradition; squirmish about the concept of fancy dress (the effort involved seems commensurate with axing the trees to light your own funeral pyre), cynical of the commercialization of yet another pagan / christian ceremony and also mightily stressed out by the following email, which begins:

Come in Costume, laugh and smile a lot!

The British in me rears up like a dragon. Not only do they expect me to wear a costume (a costume!) but they also are demanding I laugh and smile? PER-LEASE. Who are these Americans? So crass. So happy all the time…

OK, I’m just a little envious. I’ve grown up in the land of Malcom Tuckers. I don’t know how to be happy and laugh all the time. I know how to be sarcastic and wry and cock one cynical eyebrow all the time whilst complaining about the weather.

We’re asked to bring healthy food for the pot luck and healthy snacks for the trick or treat, as environmental as possible (this is after all at Green School – the greenest school in the world or something).

I spend all week online googling manically for healthy Halloween recipes. I have visions of extravagantly costumed parents holding out little cupcakes with monster faces on whilst I lurk in my jeans and a t-shirt at the back handing out Haribo. The shame is too great and spurs me into action.

I head into the metropolis of downtown Denpasar to buy an oven and a little Chinese black box to make it work, which made a percussive sound when shook like one of those kid’s maracas. Though a child’s musical toy would probably not have exploded in quite the same spectacular fashion.

Annabel Karmel can make brain mush muffins. Well whoopppeee dooo Annabel.

Jamie Oliver can make fruit gums using real fruit. Congrats Jamie.

I however can make nothing because my oven has exploded. My NEW oven which cost me an arm and a leg plus the ‘fine’ that we had to pay for being foreign and driving a car past a policeman.

Secretly I’m quite glad that the oven exploded because as soon as I unwrapped it I felt a deep sense of foreboding, rather like when you were a kid and unwrapped the giant present under the tree convinced it was going to be the Barbie house you’d been hoping for for three years but was in actual fact a flower press. And you had to slap a face on you and act happy for the rest of Christmas day when all you wanted to do was go upstairs and hide the flower press at the top of your wardrobe and kick something really hard.

That’s how I felt about the oven. But I had to act happy and like I hadn’t just sentenced myself to a life of stress and drudgery. My inner monologue went something like WHAT WERE YOU THINKING?

Anyway I woke up on Saturday morning, the day of the trick or treat thing, and decided that I was done with pretending (I know, I know I’ve said this about ten times on this blog) that I was a yummy mummy domestic goddess. I closed down all those google windows displaying images of mummy pizzas and googly eyed fruit salads and instead pulled out my phone and speed dial rang the pizza place, ordering three pizzas and five packs of cookies. They’re spelt flour – that surely qualifies them as healthy?

Relief has never felt so good let me tell you. I might have been $80 poorer but I was a million dollars worth of happier.

Then we get to the trick or treat village. I have to ask a passing Canadian what I’m expected to do when the kids come knocking. She looks at me weirdly and tells me I should compliment them on their costumes and hand out the cookies.

OK, I think, I can manage that. I hand out all the cookies, eating seven myself as I wait. (It was stressful, running over my lines.)

Alula arrives beaming with the shopping bag I’d given her filled with goodies. We empty them out.

Every single treat is a plastic wrapped one cent sweet from the local supermarket.

 

 

Drugs

I am ill with flu.

People have suggested various remedies: Having an enema, drinking colloidal silver, imbibing reishi mushroom tincture and green juice fasting.

Has no one here heard of Nurofen cold and flu?

I feel like some furtive drug dealer slipping them into my mouth whilst no one is looking….drugs are so frowned on here. Sticking a lubed hose up your butt and hosing it out is fine, giving up eating and absorbing all your body’s energy requirements by lying in the sunshine and smelling the pretty flowers is totally acceptable, raising no more than a nod of encouragement, but taking a little white pill of pharmaceutical goodness is so frowned upon you’d think I was snorting babies’ brains.

Even admitting your child has had vaccinations for tetanus and polio makes people tut and shake their head – as if you’ve admitted to having them tattooed with the numbers 666 across their butt cheeks.

Quick shove me up against a wall and break out the uzis.

Over here, all drugs, except the mushroom (non reishi) kind are BAD. Kill someone? Get out of jail free. Get caught with a joint? Line up against the wall whilst they usher in the firing squad…

Sometimes it feels like we’ve fallen down a rabbit hole.

Case in point – a fourteen year old Australian boy got caught buying some weed on the beach down south last week. He’s now in prison awaiting charges which could be in the region of a twenty year sentence if he’s lucky.

Can you even imagine being his parents? Too awful to contemplate. I have to say if my kid bought drugs in Bali though I’d be tempted (tempted I’m saying – not that I would) to just let him or her suffer the consequences because it’s Darwinism at work surely? It’s not like the warnings aren’t stark enough. It’s not really possible to miss the skull and crossbones that meet you when you get off the plane and the large sign saying ‘THE PUNISHMENT FOR POSSESSION OF DRUGS IS DEATH!’

And if you come from Australia there’s also the well-documented cases of the Bali 9 and Schapelle Corby – all Australian citizens caught trafficking drugs into Bali and who are now sitting in Kerobokan prison. But maybe those stories act like the pictures of lung disease on the backs of cigarette packs. Maybe most 14 year olds just ignore it all thinking they’re immortal, untouchable and it could never happen to them…

Which is why the other day we were discussing with friends when would be a good point to leave Bali and take up residence elsewhere. Unanimous vote on when the kids get to be teenagers…

Green School Bali

Alula has started at a new school. Some of you may have heard of it. It’s called Green School and it’s sort of famous because it’s a) built all out of bamboo (even the toilets) b) Al Gore visited once and so did Ben & Jerry (you can tell which one made me more excited) c) it’s the world’s first eco school or something (I’m not actually sure) but what I do know is that once you see it you kind of come away wowed and wishing that you could be five again with really cool parents who moved you to Bali and were hippy enough to not really care much about the curriculum but who thought that skipping around a giant crystal in the jungle and learning songs about Mother Earth was the way forward (I exaggerate – the curriculum is actually British and the school motto is not ‘Do not follow the Guru, you are the Guru’ though I think it should be because that would be awesome).

It’s like Swiss Family Robinson crossed with Mallory Towers crossed with I’m a celebrity get me out of here crossed with an Ashram . See you’re nodding right? Cool huh? You want to be five again with me as your mother I can tell.

The irony is however that most the parents send their kids to Green School in huge 8-seater chauffeur driven people-carriers. The place is off grid, recycles student poo, grows its own food and uses banana leaves as lunch plates – just to put the car thing into context. I’m one of only a few mums who actually does the school run and definitely the only one who does it in a four seater tin can. Which also makes me guilty of being a hypocrite too but bear in mind Alula’s just turned 5 and I want to be the one to take her to school and I want to be there when she comes out to give her a hug and listen to the teacher tell me what stubborn, willful, challenging new behaviour she’s exhibited that day.

I don’t think that would be fair on a driver to have to relay to me.

Also I’m not about to cycle her to school given its 15 miles of lorry laden madness, broken up tarmac and having to avoid the potholes and splatted dogs.

And I’m lazy, you know that.

By the way, I’m using the I form rather than the we in that paragraph because John is currently in London where he is working because someone has to pay for all this crystal skipping, mother earth bamboo schooling taught by Ben & Jerry. Next week we will revert to we again. Actually we will revert to HE because frankly I’m tired of the school run especially as my ipod won’t synch spotify so I’ve had to listen to the same album by Snow Patrol about five million times (I know embarrassing right?) which I’d still rather do than listen to the free Learn Indonesian podcasts I downloaded, tired too of sitting gripping the sides of the bench waiting for Alula to walk out her classroom feeling a heady mixture of fear and angst as I scan the teachers’ faces, tired of having to wait for her to drink her slushy before we can leave…the list continues. John can take over for a while and errr, I’ll do something useful, like earn the money to pay the fees. Somehow. Or maybe I’ll just go for massages.

Here are some pictures of the school anyway:

The toilets are made from bamboo. There is one for weeing and one for pooing. This means you can sit next to each other and chat whilst vacating your bowels so long as the other person is only weeing. If you poo in the wee toiled I think you’d have to reach in and pick it out. It is quite a challenging set up for a five year old who hasn’t yet mastered pelvic floor control (not saying I have either) to switch between loos without emptying bowels on the floor in between them.

This is Alula’s classroom. It rocks huh?


The is the heart of school. That’s what it’s called. I didn’t just make it up.

Who you gonna call?

Alula has been doing her best impression of Damien from the Omen these last few weeks. And when I say ‘impression’ I mean that she follows the method acting school of thought.

Being Ubud, most people’s first response when I appear weeping before them, pouring the valium down my throat is – ‘Have you taken her to a Balian?’

Not – Have you taken her to see a therapist? Have you taken her for ice cream? Have you spoken to her teachers? Have you tried Supernanny?

But – Have you taken her to a witchdoctor?

And that’s not coming from the Balinese, that’s coming from the ex-pats – most of whom I count as friends and who aren’t the typical blissninny you find here – but practical, sensible, intelligent people with real stories about their own freaky experiences.

Hell, I’ll try anything at this point I thought, and what harm could a little opinion be? And I am a believer in some aspects of spiritual healing (though have never tried a witchdoctor before it must be said). So I emailed a Balian recommended to me and asked what he thought.

The Balian told me that two demons were squatting on Alula’s astral plane.

Yes you read that right.

Two demons. Squatting. Astral plane.

I mean where do you go with that? Other than to the dictionary to make sure you’ve understood properly? And then to the bathroom to lie down on the cold wet tiles clutching a bottle of vodka?

Suddenly I’m Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby.

So the Balian says he’ll do a clearing (I think that’s the polite terminology for exorcism…oh the irony. My child actually is possessed! Apparently.).

OK, I say to the guy. I mean why not? I’m also trying Omega 3 fish oils, lavender sprinkled on her clothes, a no sugar diet, approaches from ‘The Explosive child’, daily massages and lots of love and hugs. Having someone chant some words on top of all that sounds fine to me. I’m open to most things these days – except perhaps staring into strangers’ eyes and sending them the love of the universe. And it beats electro-shock therapy right? And thirdly, in this lurid list of self-justifications – what if, just what if, it might actually be true? I You’d be breaking out the holy water too believe me…

And guess what? Alula woke up this morning for the first time in about six weeks and told me in a sweet voice ‘I love you mummy.’ There were no screaming battles, no devil faces, no rages. She was placid as a lamb.

Maybe it’s the lavender. Maybe she just woke up in a better mood. Maybe she’ll flip out again later, or maybe Rosemary should have taken her baby to a Balian.