Our lovely housemate who is staying a few weeks comes into the kitchen one morning and asks:

‘What time does Bintang open?’ (Bintang being the local supermarket on a par with Lidl).

‘8 I think,’ John says, ‘But if you need anything for breakfast just help yourself.’

‘I need butt lube,’ she says.

‘Right,’ says John beating a hasty retreat.

‘They sell butt lube in Bintang?’ I ask.

‘Well vegetable margarine,’ she says.

‘You use vegetable margarine? Urgh.’ I say.

‘It’s better for you than petroleum based gels,’ she says.

I nod silently because there’s one thing that our housemate knows and that is butts and putting things inside them.

She is a world-renowned colonic irrigator.

And she’s trying to get me to cleanse and irrigate. And by cleanse we mean raw juice 3 times a day and by irrigate we mean a hose stuck up my bum.

Ubud is the kind of place where people accost her on the street and start begging her for appointments and I just stand there wondering how embarrassing that must be having a stranger who’s on intimate terms with your anus stand and chat to you whilst the traffic honks.  But it would seem that it’s only me who has such issues and who’s squeamish about having vegetable margarine slathered on my butt and a tube pushed up there. It seems that most of the rest of Ubud wash out their butts as often as I wash my hands.

Everyone tells me it’s really good. That you drop eight pounds in half an hour. That you feel like a light being once it’s over. And really I must, must, must try it.

Yeah.

Isn’t that the same feeling you get after drinking 10 shots of tequila? Apart from maybe the eight pounds.

And then how would I be able to spread flora on my toast and sit down to breakfast with my housemate ever again?

 

 

Alula and I drive past a  fifty foot high horse and Alula asks:

What’s the horse for?

– The King died.

A real King?

– Yes. He died and they’re having a cremation.

What’s a cremation?

– It’s something they do when people die.

So will they take him to the not dead doctors and make him better? Will they make him alive again?

– Errrr kind of

What do they do to the horse?

– They burn the horse.

And the King is in the horse?

– Yes.

But if they burn the horse won’t he die?

– He’s kind of already dead. He died two months ago. (I don’t mention the digging up of his body by his relatives after two months which is how long it’s taken to prepare for this event next Tuesday).

But what happens to him?

– (pause) The horse takes him to heaven

But you just said they burn the horse.

– Errr. That’s after.

And will he come back after that?

– Yeah, it’s called reincarnation.

What’s re instarvation?

– It’s when you die and come back as somebody else. Your soul transfers into a new body. Kind of.

What does soul transfer into a new body mean?

– Err. It’s kind of like. Well – Err. Oooh. oooh look a cloud. Shall we sing a song? Ten green bottles…

But –

– Look a giant Barbie –

Cremation Horse for the King of Peliatan. Who is really dead. And who isn't come back to life. Except maybe if he's reincarnated

It was when I had just finished school and was taking a year out to work and to go travelling, except I had no work so I joined this posh temp agency in Clapham who found posh sounding girls like me and matched them with even posher, rich people who needed people to walk their dogs,  open their post, look after their hamsters and occasionally their children.

The first job I had was nannying two gorgeous little boys in Hampstead Heath. They had to be dressed in colour co-ordinating clothes every day. I was more interested in their uncle than in their clothes. Still I did a good job. The boys loved me, the uncle definitely liked me.

Then I got offered another job and I said yes, because there was nothing else on the horizon. And it turned out the job was cleaning.

I’ll say that again. It turned out the job was cleaning.

If you know me you’ll know that’s funny.

If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you’ll know how funny.

It gets better.  It turns out that the job was not just cleaning a four bed house in Esher but that the job was for the Daily Mail who were running a piece on how much a housewife was worth.  So they’d brought in a cleaner, housekeeper, cook, chauffeur and nanny to replace the miserable lady of the house, to illustrate that a housewife’s value was roughly $895,409 a year. Or something.

So Daily Mail.

So there I am, eighteen years old, in my ripped jeans, staring at a mop thinking WTF am I supposed to do with this thing? But I give it a go because I’m being paid something like £7.50 an hour and surely it can’t be that hard?

By the end of the week I’ve mastered hovering and dusting.  Mastered in the same way I’ve mastered mothering and Indonesian and meditating and cooking.

The funny thing is I guess as a teenager you never think ahead that much – never really run though things like consequences – so I never thought ahead to the fact that on Monday when my job was finished it was going to be analysed in the Daily Mail and my performance judged by the entire population of middle England.

So Monday dawns and there I am in black and white pixilated fuzziness, but clearly still me, arms slung across chest, half scowl on my face, clearly more worried about how I looked than the fact that my cleaning ability was about to be dissed.

Which is was. The housewife in question spent 300 words yapping about the amazing cook and chauffeur and nanny and then 30 words dismissing the cleaner who she felt wasn’t up to scratch. A waste of money.

That’s what I was. A waste of money. That’s what all Tory voting, daily hate reading, asylum loathing housewives would now be thinking of me. (Funnily enough about ten years later a Daily Mail reader would call me ‘a monkey in a room with a pen’ – reading about a refugee integration programme I’d set up which the Daily Hate, being the Daily Hate was obviously outraged about – refugees clearly being illegal benefit scroungers who deserved to be held in prison and then sent home to be tortured but I digress…)

I am thinking about this story (of me being outed in public as a rubbish cleaner) as I come up the stairs of my house in Bali. I am thinking about it as I notice the freshly made beds and the folded laundry and the clean, mopped bathroom floor. And I’m still thinking about it as Kadek comes in with my cup of tea.

I am a rubbish cleaner. I can live with this. I embrace my inner teenager, who still wears ripped jeans (though now cut offs), and converse, and still folds her arms over her chest when confronted with the unpleasant and who still scowls at anything which is lame.

I embrace Kadek.

 

 

I have an idea

Come on you know you want to

Alula: Let’s play princesses Dil: I don’t want to

If I look all pretty will he want to then?

Dil: No I already told you. I’ve spent 4 hours doing everything you’ve told me to and now I’ve had enough

Lula: Oh come on...we can do dancing and jazz hands. Dil: Girls are so fricking annoyin

Dil: Ok, ok, I give up Alula: yayyyyy

Crazy cat lady spots me as I stand next to the ice cream in Bintang (think local supermarket on a par with Lidl). I am talking to my friend who I’ve also just run into when I see her heading towards me at eleven o’clock. And I think about ducking but I’m cornered between a trolley and the freezer.

Crazy cat lady always wears the same Audrey Hepburn Breakfast at Tiffany’s black dress and she has her hair cut into a bob which she must blowdry though heaven knows how she has the wattage in her house – it must fuse the whole of Ubud every time. Anyway, her hair makes it look like Darth Vadar is coming towards me. And she always, always wears sunglasses so large you could eat your dinner off one lens and your dessert off the other. She wears them come rain or shine, indoors and outdoors. I have never seen her eyes. Maybe if you ripped the glasses off lots of wires and red lights would come spilling out of her eye sockets and little puffs of smoke would escape from her mouth and ears as her robot body shut down. Now there’s a thought.

The reason I call her crazy cat lady and not say, Darth Vadar or Robot Holly Gofrightly, will soon become apparent, but let me first tell you a little story. Last week I volunteered at a literary lunch at the four seasons where Louis de Bernieres gave readings from his new book and talked about…well he talked a lot about women actually. During the Q&A session, I watched crazy cat lady stand up (wearing her sunglasses) and asked him for his recipe for catfood. She didn’t ask him about how long it takes him to write a book or whether he plays the mandolin or whether he got to meet Pen Cruz. She didn’t ask him about the political background to his books or whether he visits countries he writes about. No she asked Louis de Bernieres for his cat food recipe.  I think I need say no more.

So she corners me and I see my friend  smirking at me. And the first thing crazy cat lady says is, ‘Have you decided on getting a cat yet?’

My face freezes into a rictus of a smile. ‘hahahhahaahaha’ I say hoping this answer will suffice.

It will not.

‘Because I have 46 cats needing homes.’

‘hahahhahhaahahahahahaha.’

‘They’ve had all their jabs.’

‘Well,’ I say, ‘I’m not really a cat person. Hahahahahahahhaa’

‘DON”T GET A PUPPY,’ she practically roars at me.

I cringe back against the ice cream freezer. Who said anything about puppies? Maybe I used that excuse last time when she was sat next to me at the 4 seasons and there was no escape except into the magically refilling wine glass before me.

I look at my friend and for a perverse moment I am tempted to tell crazy cat lady that said friend just turfed a mewling stray baby kitten out of her house and into the rice paddy because it crapped on her bed. That might take the spotlight off of me and my failure to adopt half the discarded cats of Bali.

There could be quite literally a cat fight in the building. I picture it. I picture ccl hissing and swiping in outrage and my friend hating on me for dumping her in it. I picture myself stepping in and ripping off the sunglasses. And maybe it’s a wig I think as I ponder the fact it never, ever moves like normal hair should. That could come off too.

Obviously I keep my mouth shut because I’m not the crazy one in this situation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The girl is tap tap tapping her leg whilst the man is reading out his graphic sex scene involving bobbing breasts and excited members. I am biting down on my bottom lip trying so hard not to laugh that I think I might give myself an oral piercing.

We are in a workshop on writing for young adults. I’m just the volunteer on the door but this is far more entertainment than I bargained for. I am kind of qualified for the workshop because I write young adult fiction. I’ve even written a sex scene – though my agent made me take it out of my last book because apparently it’s all about the denial these days. Damn Edward Cullen.

The poor girl tapping her foot has a curtain of hair cascading in front of her face emo style. During the introductions she announced that she wanted to kill herself a few years before and is now seeking her purpose. Everyone claps enthusiastically.

She is sitting next to a girl in a preppy Indonesian school uniform. She must be about sixteen but she looks about six , with her shiny shoes and shiny hair complete with red ribbon.

The workshop leader asks if she would like to read aloud what she’s just written. She shakes her head terrified and mute.  I wonder if she’s written some hard core torture porn.

The girl next to her – an Australian who teaches sexuality through yoga – happily volunteers to read aloud what she has written.

This is so much fun I’m thinking as I watch the people in the room read out their work, alternatively squirm, give academic nods, tap their feet and look nonplussed. There are lots of ‘compelling’s afterwards and mutterings of ‘so brave.’

Then an Indonesian man in his fifties, a biology teacher, reads aloud a story he has written about a girl wondering if the boy she loves who is a science nerd will be good in bed. At least I think it’s about that. It’s kind of hard to tell. After he has finished he asks if it is ok to fictionalize yourself.

The man next to him spends fifteen minutes introducing himself but all I hear are the words peace and love. Peace and love. Peace and love. There is so much peace and love inside him he is about to erupt with it. I glance around for the Kleenex incase he actually does.

There are some amazing writers in the group too – people who write something in five minutes which I end up thinking about for days after. Writers that make me wonder how on earth I got a publishing deal whilst these people didn’t.

It also reveals to me the chasm of cultural difference between the Balinese and Westerners when it comes to talking about sex and swearing (things I do all the time). We have no modesty on our side of the fence. Having said that the writing that is shared is from our side of the fence is, for the most part, phenomenal.

The whole workshop has sparked an idea for my next novel. A year in Ubud. Kind of like a year in Provence Jilly Cooper style. Because truly, you couldn’t make this stuff up. Every day I’m filling up whole notepads with hilarious things overheard in cafes and bars and on the school run. Yesterday I had a conversation with a new friend who drinks her own wee. The day before I had a conversation with my other friend about gravitational systems for colonic irrigation.

I’m telling you, you couldn’t make this shit up.

 

 

 

5.45am view from the balcony

Princess bed.

our bale

Bali Buddha deli. For when you need a $10 loaf of bread

This picture is so Ubud. Buy your organic cakes and coffee. And have your palm read at the same time. Love it.

our street.

John Lewis bag. Check. Mexican Viva la revolucion bag. check. Mexican pool boy hat. check.

A list of the people I have met in the last five days:

  1. Iridolgist
  2. Raw food cook
  3. Colonic irrigator
  4. Sexuality through yoga teacher
  5. Tarot reader
  6. Theta balancer
  7. Ecstatic dance teacher
  8. Feng Shui Balancer
  9. Soapnut evangelist

Where are all the accountants and lawyers?

They are not here I have figured, because there is no place for them in Ubud. No one is interested in money here because they are too busy meditating in a rice paddy and balancing their karma to balance their books. And the law – well the law seems to have no place in Indonesia full stop.

I am thinking of working on a novel based here. I wouldn’t have to make anything up because you really couldn’t make this stuff up.  No one would believe it wasn’t fiction anyway.

It would be like Jilly Cooper, only exchanging Polo and double barreled names for yoga and chosen names.

The only problem is I shall have to write it when we’re ready to leave (which won’t be for a while because Kadek the cleaner / cook / nanny / angel started yesterday and sure as hell I ain’t leaving now) because it’s a small town and I don’t want to find myself sent to coventry. I absolutely love being able to walk down the street and fall into conversation with whoever. It’s the friendliest, most welcoming town in the world. Just not for bankers or accountants or lawyers.

The thing that stops me from picking up pen today however,  is what I’d have to do in the name of research.

 

Shower, I say (in Indonesian).

Wayan nods.

I flick hurriedly through the pages of the dictionary whilst I stand in the bath demonstrating. ‘Long’ I say, pointing as I say it to the shower lead.

I search frantically for shower head holder. It’s not included in the concise dictionary.  I settle for to hold.

So we have: shower long to hold.

I add the Indonesian for to buy.

Should be enough right? You get what I’m getting at don’t you?

Wayan says something. I recognize the word Nyoman – his sister in law who lives behind us – who speaks an iota more English. I run around to her house and explain that I’d like Wayan to buy me a longer shower lead and then drill in a shower head holder over the bath. It’s not rocket science.  Don’t ask why I’m not doing this myself. I urgh, have no clue where to locate the parts, there not being a Homebase in the vicinity and who’s going to put me in charge of a drill? And we’re paying Wayan and all he’s doing currently is draining the pond every day and filling it up again. I stopped him from burning the rubbish – his only other job – and installed some expensive recycling bins, which get collected weekly, so he doesn’t even have this job to do anymore. (The only waste we now have is compost and this gets fed to our pembantu’s pig. How’s that for green?)

Anyway Nyoman says something like ok, ok, sorted.

I go home.

Five minutes later an out of breath Nyoman arrives. Not Nyoman who lives behind us who I’ve just spoken to but Nyoman a man, husband of our landlady. It’s confusing I know.

‘Is there problem with shower?’ he asks.

‘God no,’ I say, ‘tidak problem. Just um, we need longer lead for shower (you get in the habit of dropping pronouns after a while) so if people want shower in  bath they can have one.’

‘Aahhhhh ok,’ he says and disappears off.

Ten minutes later Made arrives (not the old nanny, the landlady) and says, ‘What’s the matter with the shower? Is it broken?’

I bury my head in my hands.

The time has come to learn Indonesian. Or at least a little bit more than shower. Hold. Long. To buy.

There are two alternatives but not prepared to go there: learn better mime skills or learn DIY.