I’m in the car being driven to see my friend in Canggu. I would normally drive myself but I have work to do and it’s easier to type (like I’m doing now) if I’m in the passenger seat. Though I have no doubt that many Balinese would attempt to do both at the same time, considering the laissez faire attitude to driving on the island…that was a  stop sign? Look at me! No hands! Why can’t I talk on my mobile, drive one handed with my baby strapped to my chest with a sarong, wearing no helmet and balancing a dozen coconuts and two other family members on my bike? Why do I need to look right before pulling into traffic? What do you mean I have to be 16 to ride a motorbike? I’m 9 but I look 12, that’s plenty old enough… I on the other hand have a strong sense of self-preservation. And I really, really don’t want to kill someone.

Anyway, I digress…our driver Komang (who deserves a sainthood for driving three screaming banshee girls every day to and from school…why’d you think I handed over car pool duties?) is bouncing me over the ruts. We almost bounce into a woman in kebaya and sarong, laying an offering in the middle of the road.

‘Why is she laying the offering in the middle of the road?’ I ask Komang. I mean, I’m used to the laying of offerings and I am a full believer in placating spirits (through several experiences we’ve all become full believers in the magic and spirits to be found in Bali) but I’ve never understood why sometimes the offerings are in the middle of the road.

‘Oh,’ he replies, swerving to avoid the beautiful coconut leaf tray of rice and flowers. ‘It’s for the devil.’

‘The devil?’ I ask, shooting nervous glances into the jungle on either side of us.

‘Yes, if it’s on the ground it’s for the devil. We give offerings to the good spirits and to the devil,’ he explains.

Wise people.

‘At every junction,’ Komang goes on to explain, ‘The Balinese make statue and temple because there were so many collisions and people dying before.’

‘Oh,’ I say. ‘So they built the statues to slow people down?’

I’m thinking of this giant statue that sits on a really crucial intersection near our house. It’s almost impossible to see what’s coming so you creep slowly forwards until just enough of the road is visible for you to know if it’s safe to pull out. The Balinese, much more at home with ideas of mortality and believing as they do in karma normally fly straight out without so much as a pause, reminding me of that classic Clueless scene where Cher is taking her drivers’ test and runs a stop sign… ‘I like totally paused.’

I strive for this mental attitude…this notion that when your time’s up, your time’s up…so why stress about it? I

But I’m thinking, that’s actually some wise and clever urban planning right there, plonking giant statues at intersections to try to slow people down and force them to look first before pulling out but…

‘No,’ Komang replies. ‘They’re for the offerings.’

Of course they are. Though judging from the number of deaths on the road here each day perhaps some traffic lights might also be in order?

Categories: Bali


November 20, 2012

After screaming blue murder for two hours last night because she didn’t want to take a shower and thought her daddy and I were EVIL for even suggesting it, Alula fell asleep exhausted and tear-stained (the tears tracking pathways through the dirt we had failed to clean off).

She awoke this morning and promptly started screaming once more about how much she hated us / wanted new parents / couldn’t believe we were insisting on a shower every day…

By the time 7.30 rolled around I could not wait to hussle her out the door and collapse onto the bed in a catatonic ball of mother guilt, idly wondering if it was too late to put her up for adoption. As she stomped off down the path I told her to check in with her friends in the car pool as to whether they washed daily or not.

She came home quite sheepish, thank the Lord, and got in the shower without arguing. I mean, the kid goes to school in a jungle. A jungle with a farm attached to it. She goes on regular treks through said jungle and pretends to be an ant or a plant whatever her green studies teacher (Pak Awsome as he’s called by the kids) is teaching them about that day. She comes home so encased in dirt we practically need chisels to prise her free.

That drama over with, Alula bounced on the bed and informed me that during Green studies that day, while pretending to be a plant, she had shuffle hopped over towards Jack, her amour, and whispered (in a plant like voice I assume…) ‘Jack do you want to go out to dinner with me?’

I suppressed the giggles for long enough to ask what he said in reply.

‘He said yes of course,’ said Alula, tossing her curls. You gotta love her self-assurance. ‘I’m going to wear my prettiest dress and take a flower from the garden.’

John who happened to be there listening to this part blanched. His eyes grew buggy. He stared at me as though I was to blame for our daughter’s wanton ways. But secretly I’m delighted because it’s about time she started having some boy playmates. I had an older brother and loved hanging about with the boys as I grew up. It taught me a lot.

Like how to burp on demand.

‘Mummy?’ Alula asked as she laid there in a daze beside me (probably imagining the flower decked unicorn she would ride to her dinner date) ‘Why do all the boys love me?’

To be fair, this week two boys have declared their love for her so this wasn’t her being big-headed. She was naturally curious.

‘Because you know how to read,’ I told herImage. ‘And you’re super smart.’

I am hoping that instead of picking out a dress to wear to her date, Alula will pick out a few books from her bookshelf to take along instead.

I have been lame at keeping up the blog. I think I needed a break. Thanks for bearing with me. I’m going to post several posts at once.

Well, Alula turned six and started first grade! Can you believe it? We left the UK when she was 3 so it feels now like she’s spent half her life living overseas and is a proper ex-pat kid. A theory confirmed today when John and I tried to work out where she’d been disappearing to for half hours at a time. It turned out she was running next door and having the lovely Balinese girls who live there braid her hair and paint her nails.

This morning she woke up and asked me if she had time to run next door and get her hair braided and a pedicure before school. Holy hell. We’re really not sure how she’s going to adapt if she ever has to rejoin the ‘real’ world. Though frankly the real world is overrated.

We have managed to get on top of the cleaning up after herself and treating the babysitter like a gimp though. We no longer have a babysitter (see my next post) and we introduced pocket money. She has to tidy up all her toys, make her bed and bring her plates to the sink. In exchange she gets a dollar a day to spend at school at the raw food warung. Yes, Green School Bali, possibly the only school on earth that has it’s own raw food warung selling raw chocolate dinosaur truffles and green smoothies good enough to bribe kids with.

Actually, at Alula’s party the other day, I looked around at her group of friends and honestly felt like she is growing up in the best place in the world. They’re the most polite, kind, loving and generous-hearted six year olds I’ve ever encountered. All of them growing up without TV or the evils of advertising, practicing yoga, learning two languages at school and immersed in the beauty of this Hindu animist culture. We had a treasure hunt which led them to a statue in the garden.

‘Ganesha!’ they all cried.

This morning John and I found an offering Alula had made and placed at his feet.Image

Although a lot of people will tell me that I’m good at confrontation, that I get an A* in telling it like it is and a gold medal in speaking my mind, consequences be damned, I don’t really enjoy it. Well, OK, sometimes I enjoy it…if I have the upper hand and have prepared all my lines.

But yesterday on the tube (yes, we’re back in London and have been since the end of June, which is probably why you haven’t heard from me. I’m just too exhausted by being here to blog…) I had a moment with this woman which made me a) want to burst into tears b) wonder at the state of the world and all the anger in it (see I’m so Ubud now) c) want to smack this woman around the head (OK, maybe not so much with the hippy bliss love) d) go straight back to Bali without passing Go or collecting $200.

I’m on the tube. Alula is beside me and we’re talking about something really important. I can’t remember what but probably it was about Moshi Monsters or about Alula’s business plan to start a spa in our house so that she can make people happy while also making herself rich so that she can then ‘buy lots of things to make me happy’ (note to self: not sure this eco Bali teach her the true value of things concept is working on her).

Anyway, suddenly this woman yells, ‘Would you stop doing that?’ startling us both. I realize that as Alula has been talking to me her foot has been absently tapping the woman’s leg.

‘Oh God, was she tapping you with her foot?’ I ask, genuinely feeling bad cos I know how annoying that is.

‘Yes!’ the woman roared at me over Alula’s head.

Alula sat there startled and pale. ‘You know, you could have just asked her nicely to stop it,’ I said.

‘I glared at her three or four times,’ the woman spat at me.

‘She was facing in my direction, not yours. How was she supposed to see you glaring at her?’ I asked, quite nicely, but also feeling the blood beginning to pound through my body and my face getting hotter. ‘You know, you could have just asked her nicely to stop. She wasn’t doing it on purpose.’

The woman turned away in disgust and started muttering under her breath.

‘Do you have something you want to say?’ I asked her, again opting for polite, but verging on getting very, very irritated.

‘If you’re going to be an apologist for her all her life then god help how she’s going to turn out,’ the woman snapped at me in fury.

By this point, my eyes were popping. I glanced around the carriage to see if there was anyone else as gobsmacked as I was by the crazy lunatic woman yelling at me.

No. Everyone was remarkably interested in their Evening Standards. Typical.

‘I’m not apologizing for her.’ Actually I wasn’t. By that point I was wishing I’d egged Alula on to kick her harder. ‘It was an accident. She didn’t mean to kick you. What the hell is your problem lady?’ I hissed.

I grabbed Alula’s hand and we stood up. ‘You,’ I said, holding my head high while also seething, ‘are a CRAZY lady,’ I informed her. ‘And we are getting off. Because you are CRAZY,’ I added for emphasis. Also, by this point I wanted to confirm my prognosis by making her even crazier. I do like to stir sometimes.

And it worked. We stood on the platform as the train doors closed, staring in  as she ranted and raved and her eyeballs practically rolled in her head and everyone around her buried their own heads in their papers.

Anyway, it left me shaken, and Alula shocked into trembling silence. And then it just made me want to go straight back to Bali, where they might put a black magic curse on you but where I’ve never seen such dark, negative, angry energy pulsing off a person. It just makes you feel tainted being around that shit. I had to go home and have a bath. Then in a very Bali move instead of seething about it and sending her hate vibes, I started sending the crazy lady positive energy and vibes and compassion instead. Call me Guru Rimpoche from now on people.

She must have had a hard day I tried convincing myself (NOW I really was being an apologist…oh the irony). And the thought that I was taking on her black energy and passing it forward was not what I wanted to do.

But, having said all that, I still wish Lula had kicked her harder. And with a steel-toe capped boot besides.

‘The first prostitute I ever visited was in Las Vegas. She told me that I was the youngest guy she’d ever slept with … and the best.’

I glance up from my sun-lounger where I’ve been pretending to read my kindle and stare (with my nostrils flaring) at the man speaking. He’s about sixty and up until then I’d assumed gay. I am so grossed out by the fact he is talking about Vegas prostitutes at 10am by a hotel pool that I shoot him a stare that would make a Gorgon flinch. He doesn’t seem to notice because he’s far too busy telling the 50 year-old woman next to him that he’d love to wake up next to her and that her arse is perfect.

The woman preens a little and I think to myself, lady he just told you he sleeps with prostitutes…are you fricking deaf or something? I don’t know about you ladies, but if a I guy tried to pick me up by telling me that a prostitute in Vegas told him he was great in bed, and I happened to be standing by a pool at the time, I would push him in and then I’d probably stand on him until he drowned a bit. OK, that’s probably a little harsh, but you get me? I wouldn’t preen. I wouldn’t pout. I wouldn’t giggle. I would find some way of expressing my disgust that would hopefully render him impotent for the rest of his life. I believe I have that in me.

‘I’m celibate,’ the woman answers, thrusting her cobalt-bikini clad breasts towards him like torpedos. ‘I swore off men three years ago,’ she continues. She doesn’t act like someone who has sworn off men, I think to myself, eying her over my Kindle as she flicks her hair and bats her eyelashes. I glance around wondering if I have in fact wandered onto the set of a really bad movie because these lines…these lines are beyond reality. Surely they’ve been scripted. But I see no lights, no camera. No one is yelling action.

‘I decided,’ the lady continues, ‘to go celibate after my fifth marriage ended in divorce.’

The man dives under the water at this point. Resurfacing at the far end of the pool.

I start to scribble down this epic dialogue for use at a later date in a blog post or a cheesy TV pilot or a comedy romance novel or a geriatric porn movie (you never know where my career might head, I have to keep my options open and maybe the Universe put these people here in front of me so I could record these incredible lines and then use them in the future for something truly epic…maybe I’ll win an Oscar with it or a Pulitzer…you never know…).

Just then Alula comes skipping over to me and I decide it’s too risky to stay to hear more. I don’t want my five year old asking me what a prostitute is. I grab our towels and my Kindle, ready to hustle her away from the skanky man talking about sex and the divorcee with the torpedo boobs. I head to the desk to pay for our drinks.

Suddenly from behind me I hear. ‘Wow, what amazing eyes you have.’ I wheel around and see the man speaking to Alula who thankfully has a similar approach to dodgy old men in speedos as I do. She stares at him and starts backing the hell off.

‘So beautiful,’ he continues oblivious to her death stare (she gets it from me…I’m so proud).

My warrior mama comes bursting forth at this point.  I’m about to go tearing over there like a lioness hunting down a gazelle. But John is already there. And I’m waiting for my change.

‘I draw eyes,’ I hear the man tell John. ‘I’d love to put her eyes in my painting.’

That man is not putting her eyes in his painting. I will push him in and drown him in the pool if he even thinks about putting her eyes in his painting.

‘I think the eyes tell us everything about the human condition,’ he adds, as though that might sway us into letting him paint Alula’s eyes.

Push him in the pool, I yell silently to John, that’ll teach him all he needs to know about the human condition. I curse John for not having developed his psychic mind reading abilities and myself for not having developed mind control ones. How handy that would be right now.

But John being John, (ie. being far nicer than I) and not having heard the prostitution conversation, just nods genially at the man and makes a non-committal sound followed by a polite goodbye.

I’m dance walking twice a week. Not once. Twice.

I visit Alchemy regularly and pay ridiculous amounts of money for raw chocolate (sweetened with stevia…stevia, what’s that you ask? I’ve no idea…) when perfectly decent Cadbury’s is available for half the price.

I spent fifty quid on a bottle of Vitamineral Green and I drink it every day.

I did a liver cleanse where I drank 800ml of Epsom salts and 200ml of olive oil (then spent a lot of time on the loo).

I dragged Alula and John out of an abandoned house we were nosying around telling John that ‘I can feel the evil spirits in this place, let’s scram.’ (he did agree on the heebeegeebeeness of the place…it was festering.)

I don’t laugh when people tell me about their latest experience of black magic (a daily occurrence in this town). Instead I nod wisely and hand them a crystal.

I meditate every day (or try to, at least).

I’m paying two hundred quid towards the ceremony our landlady is organizing to bless our new swimming pool. You DO NOT want to mess with spirits and water in this country as I’ve come to understand. You bless that pool and offer the spirits ritz crackers, flowers, rice and prayers or you are asking for trouble.

I found myself explaining today what the transit of venus was.

Oh, and what an eclipse in Sagittarius means.

And the benefits of chlorella to the immune system.

And where to go for the best colonic in town (based on rumour only, I’ve only ever had one – never again).

And where to go for the best astrology reading for couples.

And where to go for the best veydic astrology reading.

And who to see for homeopathic remedies.

My limited Indonesian covers ‘Tidak Plastik’ (no plastic) and ‘saya mau satu kelapa muda tolong’ ‘I’d like a young coconut please.’

I asked John if he wanted to go to Kirtan tonight.

I caught myself wearing my yoga getup all day on Thursday. Even out of the house.

I’ve started wearing my hair in a topknot everyday because I’ve realised (after a year of experimenting) that it’s the only position to wear your hair that makes sense when doing pilates.

I chanted a mantra last night before bed.

I eat salad every day. Often twice a day.

I have Down to Earth take-out on my speed-dial.

My friend is doing this insane fast thing. When I say insane fast thing I don’t mean she’s doing something really quickly, and I’m not talking about breatharianism either (remember that post – the one about the people who wanted to give up eating altogether and just live on light?…). This is even crazier than that…

Here are the rules to this fast:

No criticizing
No complaining
No gossiping
No negative language
No bitching
And the rule is if you slip up you forgive yourself and start the 21 days over again.

I looked at her, my eyes wide as the steering wheel I was, at that moment, clutching. ‘But, but…what will you talk about?’ Isn’t that tantamount to taking a vow of silence?

‘It lets positivity flow,’ she answered. I think the words universe, manifestation and creativity were also in there somewhere.

Thing is, though my natural response is to piss-take, I’m also kind of intrigued by the idea of trying this ‘fast’, even though it would mean trying it for the rest of MY LIFE because I’d never last 21 days.

For all my piss taking about Ubud I’m actually being busted more and more by friends who narrow their eyes at me and shake their heads while saying incredulously, ‘You’re actually one of them aren’t you?’

They mean that I am slowly becoming an Ubudian…I use the words manifest, intention, positivity, universe and raw at least once a day. Sometimes when I speak I slam my mouth shut in shock that such things have fallen from my lips, without any sense of irony whatsoever (what is happening to me?) I draw the line at wearing fisherman pants however. And I only own one mandala.

Contemplating it more though, I worry that this fast might limit my conversation. Won’t it make me kind of boring? Also, does ‘Don’t come up my fucking ass!’ (yelled at a really annoying driver the other day) count as negative language? Because I really do swear rather a lot…and I complain ALL the time (mainly about the drivers on the roads here), so quitting complaining might require me to quit driving.

No gossiping…I’m boggled by this one too. I’m sure everything that comes out my mouth could be constituted gossip. As in; the exchange of information. But if it means not saying anything bad about anyone then that’s fairly easy as I try not to do that anyway, unless it’s someone EVIL (you know who you are), in which case fair game.

On second thoughts, though it sounds like a noble intention (there I go again) I think I’d rather try breatharianism.

Clearly growing up in the eighties is to blame.

I had Fame, Dirty Dancing, Footloose and Grease as my starting point. I had Johnny Castle as my teacher. The streets of New York became my dreamscape and black leather trousers with red wedge shoes my fashion true north.

Which is why I am to be found at 1pm dancing through the jungle of Bali in cut off shorts as though I am possessed by the spirit of Kevin Bacon himself. Or Baby from Dirty Dancing (after she learned to dance, not before…please). I am on fire. I am drenched in more sweat than a French legionnaire after running 50km across the desert. I am channeling Lady Gaga and Lenny Kravitz and a substantial amount of SJP from Girls just wanna have fun (have you seen that movie? Oh God if not, go buy it now). I want to come across a river so I can throw myself in and perform ‘the lift’ – possibly with a passing rice farmer in lieu of the fact there’s no Johnny Castle around, nor the cute boy from Girls just wanna have fun (who is probably about 45 by now anyway and maybe not so cute).

Balinese farmers carrying machetes stop to stare slack-jawed as we skip and twirl and boogie and strut through coconut groves in time with our synchronised playlists. Because, yes. I am not doing this alone (I’m not that crazy). This is the first walk dance in Bali.

We don our earphones. We press play. We dance out of Green school and down the hill, past barking dogs (which I can’t hear because the volume is cranked way up and I’m too busy trying to remember the moves to Michael Jackson’s Thriller that I learned when I was 9 to even notice them…rabid dog? where?). We skip down overgrown paths, stomping to warn any snakes to get out the way, and then we dance in arm-waving spinning unison like whirling dervishes or Madonna backing dancers down roads, occasionally having to nudge the person dancing with their eyes closed out of the way when a car or bike comes up behind them tooting a horn we can’t hear.

At one point I take off my headphones and just watch as the others dance in perfect silence, each of them caught in the rhythm of their own beat. Eyes closed, smiling. It’s beautiful. And I stick my headphones back in, grinning even wider and join them following Lady Gaga’s instructions to Just Dance.

Dance Walk coming soon to a street near you.

Last night we went to a party. It was brilliant. There was a babi guling feast. Vegetarians look away now….that’s an entire pig roasted on a stick over an open fire that was then carved by the table, which wasn’t a table but rather, a ten-meter long mat made of banana leaves on which the food was beautifully laid out, pig skin and all. We all sat around it and ate with our hands…it was so awesome that I looked at John and said, ‘you know how I decided yesterday I was a vegetarian? Well, I lied.’ After the dancing girls had done their bit. And I had drunk at least a bottle of wine. And had a conversation in my head with the dead pig where I argued with it that it being dead already meant that I wasn’t doing anything wrong, I had this conversation with one of the other guests.

Me: ‘Oh my god, Vaginal releasing? Like, holy what the fuck? Seriously?’

Her: ‘Did you do it?

‘No! I took the card so I could photograph it and tweet about it. And let me tell you it made the twitterverse laugh their heads off. I was still getting responses about it twelve hours later.’

‘I tried it.’

‘No way!’ I say.

‘Yes.’

‘What was it like?’

‘Amazing!’

‘Really? What does she do?’

‘She massages you with coconut oil and then says, ‘I’m going inside, is that OK?’

‘And you said ‘OK?’ ????’

‘Yes.’

‘And?’

‘And it was incredible. Such a release. So different to an orgasm.’ ….

Later the conversation turned to products that are sold in a health store in town: ‘And we have these vaginal sticks too.’

‘Excuse me, what?’ (that’s me talking)

‘Vaginal sticks…’ (at this point I must admit that I can’t fully quote the conversation because my brain was doing too many loop the loops and I was laughing so hard I was spitting wine across the room). But I can tell you this…

A vaginal stick is something made of clay that is smaller than a rampant rabbit yet larger than a finger. It has crystals in it and is used for: ‘rejuvenating, tightening and exfoliating, oh and moisturizing.’ Don’t forget that crucial moisturizing. Your insides really need it.

‘Exfoliating?’ I asked, ‘But why do you need to exfoliate a part of your body nobody ever sees?’

I was told something about dead smells or maybe dead cells. I can’t remember I was too busy ewwww-ing.

This is one of the many reasons I love Bali. Because you get Babi Guling and talk about vaginal sticks in one room.

You should know that while I was happy to do the colonic in order to entertain and inform you loyal blog readers, this is one step too far.

The gili islands – when I came here fifteen years ago they were like something from a bounty advert. No running water, intermittent electricity. I remember washing my hair in sea-water and wandering deserted beaches in very little attire. Now they’re a bit like Ibiza meets Goa on speed. Our first night we spent in a room with a balcony overlooking another balcony. The occupants of that apartment spent all night on said balcony drinking vodka and vitamin shots, and listening to head pounding house music.

At about midnight I leaped from the bed in impotent rage and ransacked the bags for my headphones, then raged at myself for not having forked out the extra $40 for noise cancelling ones. I drifted off to the sounds of The Album Leaf. At 3am I was awoken by doof doof doof doof beats and a gentle sob rose in my chest. John slept soundly on my left ear plugs wedged in his lugs. Alula’s left leg was slung across my stomach. I tugged my iPod closer and set it to play on repeat.

At 6am Alula woke me singing a song about mother earth. I was tempted to push her onto the balcony and encourage her to sing it at the top of her lungs to the neighbours.

I did not. Because I am actually thoughtful and not selfish. Unlike some people. Instead I demanded my money back from the hotel and found us a new place to stay.

However, I spent the morning pissed off and simultaneously worried about the excessive amount of money I’d spent trying to solve the problem. And as usual the universe threw other things in my way to teach me a lesson. First I met Dayu.

‘How old is your daughter?’ she asked.

‘Five and a half,’ I answered.

‘I have a daughter,’ she said.

‘Oh, that’s nice, where is she?’ I asked.

‘She lives on Lombok,’ she answered. ‘I do not see her. I live here to earn money.’

I shut my mouth unsure what I could possibly say. But as I took Alula’s hand to cross the road, aware of X watching us, I swallowed hard. How lucky am I? I asked myself. Imagine if I had to leave Alula even for a single night…OK a single night…Joy! I can manage that. But for months…? To have others bring her up? To not be there to see her grow? Inconceivable. Heartbreaking. Horrible.

Then I met Yudi, the night watch guy. 22 years old, wrapped in a towel, suffering from flu and sleeping on the beach. We chatted. He spoke English with a perfect Australian accent – to the point where I was convinced he was actually Australian. It was so strong you could have believed he’d grown up on a cattle ranch in the outback. ‘You will never go back to England?’ he asked me, incredulous, when I told him we had no plans to ever return. ‘But why?’

‘Um, because we don’t like the weather?’

He stared at me dumbstruck. I felt dumb enough to have rendered him struck.

He wanted to go to Australia. He felt so sad he told us because he had no family on the island and his dreams seemed so unobtainable. He had no belief in himself or his Australian English. My words to him to believe in himself rang hollow.

Taking Alula’s hand to walk through the darkness back to our room, we mused together on how lucky we were. ‘Because you can see me every day?’ Alula asked.

‘Yes,’ I answered. ‘We have each other and we are so so lucky. Let’s never forget that.’

‘OK.’