Shower, I say (in Indonesian). Wayan nods. I flick hurriedly through the pages of the dictionary whilst I stand in the bath demonstrating. ‘Long’ I say, pointing as I say it to the shower lead. I search frantically for shower head holder. It’s not included in the concise dictionary.  I settle for to hold. So …

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I don’t think I’ve ever been so scared. And that’s nothing to do with reading the Air Asia inflight magazine in which they discuss what happens when planes crash into the sea and try to comfort you with all the rescue paraphanelia that would ditch into the watery abyss with you. It’s ok, you’ll plummet …

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